Houston pitmasters share secrets to first-class BBQ

Everybody claims to have the best barbecue. Kansas City has its sauce. Memphis has its ribs. The Carolinas have their pork. 

But ask Texans, and they’ll tell you the Lone Star State sits at the top of the barbecue mountain.

To learn what separates average backyard grilling from championship-caliber barbecue, the Defender turned to two Houston-area pitmasters whose reputations have spread largely through word-of-mouth: Russell Fennell of Just Grilling (IG: @justgrilling.htx) and Zarak Peters of Big Z’s Que (IG: @bigzsque), whose motto is “The best BBQ this side of heaven.”

Fennell, originally from Seguin, has spent nearly four decades behind the pit and has earned awards for his ribs and brisket. Peters, who grew up in Missouri City and recently moved to Rosharon, has accumulated rooms full of trophies and award banners. After about 15 years of catering while working for Fort Bend ISD, Peters recently retired and is preparing to open a barbecue spot in Houston’s Third Ward.

Both men credit their families for sparking their passion.

“My grandfather, Herman Fennell,” Russell Fennell said when asked who inspired his barbecue journey.

For Peters, it was his late uncle, James Robertson of La Marque.

“He did most of the barbecuing in our family when I was younger,” Peters said. “I really didn’t take an interest in it until he passed away… But I think that’s where I got my motivation from.”

Here are some of their biggest barbecue secrets.

Patience is the secret ingredient

If there is one lesson both pitmasters stress, it’s that great barbecue simply cannot be rushed.

“The secret is patience and slow cooking,” Fennell said.

That’s especially true for brisket.

“You have to cook a brisket really slow, about between 250 and 275,” he said. “A 10- to 12-pound brisket is probably going to take 10 to 12, maybe 14 hours.”

Trying to speed things up with higher temperatures usually backfires because the fat doesn’t have time to render properly, leaving tougher meat behind.

“You can’t rush barbecue,” Fennell said. “Not good barbecue, anyway.”

Preparation begins before the fire

Long before meat reaches the smoker, preparation determines much of the final result.

“Prepping, being prepared, knowing what you want to do,” Peters said. “If you’re doing brisket, it’s how you trim your brisket, how you prep it. Are you going to brine? Same thing with ribs.”

Seasoning also requires intention rather than a one-size-fits-all approach.

“You can’t put the same type of seasoning on all meats,” Fennell said.

For brisket, he believes simple often wins.

“The main two ingredients are salt and pepper,” he said. “You never go wrong by just rubbing it down real good with salt and pepper.”

His ribs get extra attention. After removing the membrane, he coats them with mustard, then applies three seasonings and lets the meat rest until the surface becomes moist, giving the seasoning time to penetrate before hitting the pit.

Master the fire

Both pitmasters agree that controlling the fire is just as important as seasoning the meat.

“One of the most important things is getting your fire right,” Fennell said.

He warns against placing meat over charcoal until the lighter fluid has completely burned away, saying the residual chemicals can affect flavor and even upset stomachs.

He also cautions against adding too much wood too early.

“If you add too much wood too soon, then you’ll get a lot of the dirty smoke that you don’t want to go into your meat,” he said.

Instead, he looks for a clean, light smoke before adding meat.

“You don’t want a lot of smoke,” Fennell said. “Just enough to go through the pit and circulate.”

Keep learning—and stay woke

Despite their success, both pitmasters say they are still students of barbecue.

“I’d say for me, not thinking that I know everything,” Peters said when asked what the key is to his grilling success. “I’m always willing to learn something new… trying different seasonings, trying different techniques, and just being humble and open.”

He constantly studies YouTube videos, podcasts, and articles to improve his craft.

Another lesson: don’t leave the pit unattended.

“Don’t fall asleep,” Peters said. “Keep an alarm set… the temperature outside or in your pit may drop or rise. You have to be there to make adjustments.”

Fennell agrees.

“Once you commit to it, you’re going to have to stay up with it till it’s done,” he said.

Pitmaster favorites

Fennell doesn’t hesitate when asked about his signature barbecue dish.

“Ribs. That’s my specialty,” he said.

Peters says his ribs remain crowd favorites, surpassing chicken, which was his initial award-winner. But here recently, Peters says brisket is the most rewarding.

“It takes a lot to get a good brisket,” he said. “When you’ve got your technique down… You feel good about it.”

Where the pros eat

When Fennell wants barbecue made by someone else, he’ll happily make the drive to City Market in Luling.

Peters has sampled barbecue across Texas, including Goldee’s in Fort Worth and Franklin Barbecue in Austin. Around Houston, he gives high marks to The Pit Room, Killen’s Barbecue, and Truth BBQ.

Still, Peters believes consistency separates the great barbecue businesses from everyone else.

“If your barbecue is good, I will say it,” he said. “You have to be consistent.”

Don’t forget the sides

Outstanding barbecue deserves equally satisfying side dishes.

Fennell’s go-to spread includes beans, corn on the cob, and foil packets filled with cabbage, sausage, and potatoes.

Peters builds meals around what he calls “loaded beans,” featuring smoked turkey, bacon, and ground beef, along with greens or green beans, potato salad, and mac and cheese.

Giving back through barbecue

For Peters, barbecue is also about serving the community.

Each fall, he organizes a barbecue cook-off fundraiser to benefit the athletic program at his alma mater, Willowridge High School. All proceeds support the program, reflecting his commitment to helping future generations. Though a date has not yet been set, this year’s event is expected to take place in the fall. Those interested in supporting the fundraiser can connect with Peters through Instagram (@BigZsQue), Facebook (Zarak Peters), or by email at Bigzsque99@gmail.com.