Toxic Beauty? Chemical rise in synthetic hair

For generations, braids, wigs, and extensions have been more than beauty choices for Black women — they’ve been cultural expression, convenience, and, often, necessity. But new research is raising urgent questions about what may be woven into those styles.

A recent study by Consumer Reports found that synthetic braiding hair, wigs, and extensions — products disproportionately used by Black women — may contain harmful chemicals linked to cancer, hormone disruption, and respiratory illness.

The findings are not meant to spark panic, experts say, but to encourage awareness, accountability, and informed choices.

A deeper look at what’s in the hair

The study examined dozens of products commonly used for braiding and protective styles, identifying 169 chemicals across 43 products. Among them were flame retardants, pesticides, phthalates, and volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Researchers also detected troubling levels of heavy metals, including lead, in some samples.

“We did this study because consumers asked us,” said Dr. James Rogers, director of product and food safety research and testing at Consumer Reports. “They wanted to know if there were safer options, especially after earlier testing showed high concentrations of lead in many synthetic braiding hair products.”

In a surprising twist, some human hair products — often marketed as safer alternatives — contained even higher levels of lead.

“That was one of the biggest surprises,” Rogers said. “Human hair had the highest levels of lead — magnitudes higher than anything we tested.”

Follow-up testing in 2025 reinforced those concerns. Researchers found heavy metals in nearly every product tested, with lead detected in 29 of 30 samples. VOCs were present in all products, including acetone and low levels of known carcinogens.

At the same time, the testing showed that safer options may be possible.

“During this testing effort, we identified products that had smaller amounts down to undetectable amounts of the heavy metals,” Rogers said. “This suggests that in the production of synthetic braiding hair, these products can be made without being contaminated with these potentially harmful chemicals.”

Top Findings

All but one sample contained heavy metals. Lead was detected in 29 of the 30 products we tested, and human hair was by far the worst offender.

One hundred percent of the products also contained VOCs, including acetone, a respiratory irritant, and low levels of carcinogens (toxins that may be linked to cancer).

Brands that make claims about safety or quality of ingredients contained contaminants, too, although at sometimes lower levels than many other products tested.

It all highlights the question that several consumers posted: Is there a braiding hair product on the market that doesn’t include potentially harmful chemicals? 

“During this testing effort, we identified products that had smaller amounts down to undetectable amounts of the heavy metals. This suggests that in the production of synthetic braiding hair, these products can be made without being contaminated with these potentially harmful chemicals,” says Rogers, who also highlighted that in the 2025 report, seven out of 10 products came back negative for benzene, a known carcinogen that can cause acute myeloid leukemia. 

A cumulative exposure risk

The concern isn’t just what’s in the hair — it’s how often and how long it’s used.

Black women are among the highest-frequency users of braiding hair and protective styles, often wearing them for weeks at a time.

“We know women wear braids for four to six weeks,” Rogers said. “That’s prolonged exposure, especially when the hair is in direct contact with the scalp.” 

Heat application, tight braiding, and constant handling can increase the risk.

“If braids are too tight, they can cause microtears in the scalp,” Rogers explained. “That can allow chemicals to enter the body more easily.” 

There’s also concern about inhalation and ingestion.

“Braiding hair can be brittle,” he said. “Small particles can break off, and through hand-to-mouth contact, they can enter the body.” 

One of the reasons for choosing this pathway lies in the hair braiding salons. If you’ve ever gotten your hair braided, you may also be aware of how often braiders go from handling braiding hair to touching their face, wiping their mouth, or, putting “something in their stomachs,” aka eating a snack, between clients or while one is under the dryer. Although it’s unhygienic, some braiders sometimes also put the clients’ braids in their mouths to help hold up longer braids, enabling them to complete the braid more easily.

Black women speak out

The findings struck a nerve online. For many Black women, the report felt like a cruel tradeoff — especially for those who turned to braids after concerns about relaxers and cancer risks.

“You try to leave the chemicals of the creamy crack [relaxers] only to be exposed to something more sinister,” one Instagram user wrote.

Others called for immediate action. “This hair needs to be taken off the shelves immediately,” one TikTok commenter said, while another asked, “If they are this bad how are they allowed to be sold?”

Beyond frustration, many shared personal experiences — rashes, itching, burning, swelling, and even hair loss — that echoed the study’s findings.

For LaWonda Young, the issue became impossible to ignore.

“I noticed every time that my hair was braided with Kanekalon hair, by day one the itch was so bad,” she said. “Most times I would experience red bumps . . . it would be more like a chemical burn. I used to blame the product, but once I reverted back to just grease the problem was still there.”

The label problem

For many consumers, product labels are the first line of defense. But researchers warn that those labels can be misleading.

Products marketed as “safer” or even “organic” were not necessarily free of harmful chemicals.

“You can’t always trust the labels,” Rogers said. “Some products advertised as safer were just as bad as others.” 

He added that terms like “organic” are often misused.

“‘Organic’ really applies to how food is grown,” he said. “It doesn’t have a meaningful application to chemical-based hair products.” 

Why regulation is limited

Part of the issue lies in a regulatory gray area.

Unlike food or drugs, many cosmetic and hair products — including synthetic extensions — are not required to fully disclose ingredients before hitting the market. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration has limited authority over cosmetics compared to other consumer goods.

Consumer Reports is now advocating for stronger oversight, arguing that these products should fall under federal cosmetic regulations.

“We believe the FDA should take responsibility for these products,” Rogers said. “They are worn on the body and have the potential to impact health.” 

Health implications

Exposure to certain chemicals identified in the study has been linked to:

• High blood pressure
• Hormonal disruption
• Reproductive issues
• Respiratory irritation
• Increased cancer risk

Lead exposure is particularly concerning.

“There are no safe levels of lead,” Rogers said. “It’s associated with high blood pressure, cancer, and developmental issues in children.” 

Beauty, access, and disparity

For many Black women, synthetic hair is not just a preference — it’s often the most affordable and accessible option.

That reality sits at the intersection of beauty standards, economic access, and health disparities.

Beauticians say they are increasingly aware of the issue but also recognize the limited options available to clients.

“We’re trying to do what’s best for our clients, but we don’t always have full information about what’s in these products,” said stylist Davion Anderson, of Opulence Beauty. “A lot of times, we’re going off what’s available and affordable for our clients.”

But Anderson notes the growing concern among customers.

“Clients are asking more questions now,” he said. “They want to know what they’re putting on their scalp, especially if they’ve had irritation before.”

Not a call to abandon braids

Despite the findings, experts are clear: This is not a call to abandon braids or protective styles.

“We’re not anti-braid,” Rogers said. “We’re just trying to provide information so consumers can make informed decisions.” 

Consumer Reports is also pushing for policy changes at both the federal and state levels, including petitions urging stricter oversight of the braiding hair industry.

For now, advocates say awareness is the first step.

For Black women, the issue isn’t just about hair — it’s about health, equity, and the right to safe products.

What consumers can do

While regulation catches up, experts recommend practical steps to reduce exposure:

• Research products using trusted testing sources
• Avoid overly tight braids to prevent scalp damage
• Shorten wear time and give the scalp breaks
• Use well-ventilated spaces during installation
• Wear gloves when handling braiding hair
• Do a patch test before full installation
• Switch products if irritation occurs

“Consumers should vote with their dollars,” Rogers said. “If you’re concerned about a product, choose something else.”