Taking a hike along the Salzburger Almenweg trail in Austria

In the spectacular mountains above Filzmoos, a traditional hiking village in the SalzburgerLand region of Austria, footpaths carve their way across the landscape.

Clinging to the mountainside, crossing rugged terrain, dipping into shaded forests and passing over flower meadows and pasture, this is the Salzburger Almenweg, a hiking route through the heart of the Austrian Alps. In total, it is 350km long, covering 25 separate and self-contained stages in a mountainous loop that links dozens of traditional pastures and communities.

And now, it is marking a milestone of its own – the 20th anniversary of the route.

Open pasture

My introduction to the Salzburger Almenweg was section 22a, the major sector above Filzmoos and set amid the famous peaks of the Dachstein massif and the Bischofsmütze, soaring to 2458m. It can be picked up from the village, starting at 1057m above sea level, or by taking a shuttle bus to the Bachlalm hutte at 1490m, cutting out the initial challenging ascent.

From there, the trail climbs to almost 2000m along gravel paths and undulates into the pine forest before breaking through the tree line into open pasture.

The narrow path, often sitting at 1650-1750m above sea level, is rarely level and seems to continually descend and rise as it runs along the mountainside and crosses rock fields before winding its way to the Hofpürglhütte at 1705m for an overnight stop around 10km from Bachlalm.

The accommodation at the landmark spot on the mountain is in small rooms or shared dormitories; the food wholesome and refuelling; and the views spectacular, particularly from the drinks terrace.

Alpine cuisine

The appeal of the Salzburger Almenweg lies in the stunning landscape it connects, the diversity of the terrain across the Pongau region, and the exceptional alpine cuisine on offer.

Along the way are 120 mountain huts serving delicious food, most of it home-made to individual recipes passed down through generations. It is this abundance of mountain huttes (almen) that give the route its name of the Salzburger Almenweg.

As we walk, Hanna Niederführ explains: “The appeal of the route lies in the high density of alpine huts, with at least one on each stage. The huts are run by families, often with the whole family working in the huts during the summer.”

Distinct flavours

On the pasture, cows and sheep graze freely and provide the milk, butter, cheese and the speck and sausage that the hut owners make. The livestock roam alongside deer and marmots, whose warning whistles can be heard over the clanging cow bells.

Hanna, who is the project manager for the Salzburger Almenweg, said: “Many of the huts are only allowed to serve the products that they make themselves and each cheese and speck is individual as the hut owners make it in their own style.

“That means it can have slightly different tastes and flavours from one hut to the other and that is often down to the ingredients the hut owners add to their cheese, or simply from the different terrain the cattle graze on.”

Cheeses such as Alp blossom, herb cream cheeses and hard cheese are popular alongside the varieties of bacon, sausage and speck.

Mountain flowers

In midsummer, the aroma of the mountain is of fresh-mown hay from the pastures that are illuminated by a blaze of alpine flowers.

One of the joys of crossing this stretch in late June is the diverse array of colourful flowers that adorn the mountainside; from the pink of alpine rose, the whites and yellows of daisies and buttercups, alpine anemone, blooms of purple and blue, devil’s claw, primrose, golden pippau and the significant blue gentian which is the symbol of the Salzburger Almenweg.

While the flowers provide the colours, it is these individual huts that provide the mouth-watering flavours of the hike.

Sumptuous platters

Several of the huts have no road access and can only be reached on foot; some have accommodation, others serve food only. The Hofpürglhütte is a major stop but smaller huts are never far away, offering a more intimate experience.

With an early start the next morning after overnighting on the mountain at the Hofpürglhütte, the route winds its way back down to Filzmoos over less arduous terrain.

After an hour the path leads to the Sulzkaralm, which is perfect for a mid-morning cake and coffee stop, where you’ll find beer cooling in the drinking trough and herbs growing nearby.

It’s another hour or so onto the Kirchgasshutte, a mountain halt famous for sumptuous cheese and meat platters for lunch.

From there, as cattle graze nonchalantly on the hillside nearby, the path continues along a gentle mountain roadway and into the forest back to Filzmoos.

Multiple sectors

It is possible to hike multiple sectors of the Salzburger Almenweg route and stay overnight on the mountain or in the villages using hotels as a base, such as the popular Aparthotel Jadghof in Filzmoos.

Established in 2006, the walking trail starts in Werfen before passing through Hochkonig, Gastein, Grossarltal, Flachau, Zauchensee, Obertauern, Filzmoos and back to Werfen.

Several stretches are designated as red (intermediate) routes in terms of terrain, meaning it has a level of difficulty that requires surefootedness and stamina, but there is also flexibility along the way with opt-out routes back to the valley and easier sectors.

“Some stretches are better for families and others suit more experienced hikers,” added Hanna. “With it being a long distance hiking route, not every stage is the same.

“Some stages are more rocky, some are along the ridge and covered in flowers and in other parts you can come across small lakes – there is definitely something for everyone.”

Education displays

Filzmoos is a typical location for accessing the Salzburger Almenweg, with routes fanning out in different directions.

One option is to take the gondola ski lift (which serves the resort’s 20km of piste in the winter) to walk along section 21 along a high ridge and moorland. Here, there are educational displays on the wildlife, landscape and surrounding mountains as cows shade beneath the pine trees.

Local tour guide Sabrina Reisenberger said: “Across SalzburgerLand there are so many different hiking routes and most of them have the option to do a shorter route or take a different option if a stage proves too hard.”

Hiking destination

With family-run hotels, apartments and shops, the authentic Austrian village of Filzmoos is an ideal base for hiking. It has a population of about 1500 people and 3800 beds for tourists in summer and winter, with a 50/50 visitor split across the two seasons. The summer season runs from May to the end of October, with skiing from mid-December to Easter.

“Summer is definitely growing in terms of visitors,” said Ilona Schorgofer from the tourist office. “Hiking in the autumn is also very popular but summer is a lovely time to hike with the hillsides covered in flowers.

“People come here from all over the world and while Filzmoos has been a well-known hiking destination for many years we also have mountain biking, e-biking, horse riding and climbing. There are also hiking areas suitable for children and themed walks.”

Linking all of this together across lush terrain, pasture and rugged rocky paths – with a ready supply of delicious almen cuisine from traditional huts – is the Salzburger Almenweg, one of Austria’s great long-distance hiking trails.

FACT BOX:

STAY: Mark Nicholls stayed at the Aparthotel Jadghof  with a friendly bar, al fresco restaurant for summer evening dining and centrally located in Filzmoos; and the Hofpürglhütte (www.filzmoos.at/en/infrastructure/filzmoos-hofpuerglhuette.html) on the mountainside.

GET THERE: It is a one-hour taxi transfer from Salzburg Airport, with several direct daily flights from the UK. Visit Filzmoos.at and also find out more about the Filzmoos Summer Card. It offers free cable car and shuttle bus travel, leisure centre access and some guided village walks and is available to guests at participating accommodation and hotels. See also www.salzburgerland.com/en

MORE INFO: Salzburger Almenweg: Each stage of the Salzburger Almenweg offers new perspectives, diverse terrain and stunning views. Long-distance, tailored hiking experiences can

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